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Q: Why do some Japanese swords sell cheap, like on e-bay ?
A: Good Japanese swords are not cheap. The key word here is good. If
a sword is offered at a cheap price, you can bet it is tired (worn
out), fatally flawed or damaged. Remember Ed's General Rule #1:
If it sounds too good to be true it probably is.
Q: What is cheap ?
A: Cheap is a relative term. Refer to the question above. It
depends on many factors, a real Masamune for $50,000 would be cheap.
A general guideline for the novice might be to keep in mind several
things, degree of polish (polish averages a minimum of $80 per inch
of nagasa), papered vs. not papered (new Hozon-To papers cost around
$800), shirasaya vs. koshirae (You will typically buy more "sword"
for your money buying in shirasaya), Katana vs Wakizashi (Comparable
Katana are typically more expensive than Wakizashi). Again, cheap is
relative but as a general guideline I would anticipate spending
$2000-$3000 USD for a good beginner's study piece. This level
of sword should assure that it is in good enough polish for you to
actually learn something from, as well as be able to recoup your
investment along with a little profit in the future should you
decide to trade up.
Q: Can't I buy several swords with a few minor defects for $2000 -
$3000 ?
A: Absolutely, then you have a collection of flawed, worn out junk.
Junk that you will never be able to get your money back out of after
you realize my advise was indeed good advise. I never understood
this mentality, save your money and buy something decent to begin
with. I promise you will be happier in the long run. I don't
anticipate you listening, but remember my words.
Q: What's the difference between a good sword and a not so good
sword ?
A: Tough question to answer simply. At a basic level you should
avoid swords with blatantly oblivious defects, or damage such as
heavy rust, large openings or chips, broken tips, etc.. Due to
incremental learning, the more you study and learn you realize there
are many different levels of quality within the realm of antique
swords. You never stop learning.
Q: But why are some swords extremely expensive ?
A: This is related to a number of factors such as Age, Condition,
Rarity, Smith Ratings, and desirability.
Q: What is the best way to know how to recognize a good sword ?
A: Study, Study, Study. This includes books and hands on study of
swords as much as possible. Visit museums, sword clubs, sword shows,
collectors, etc.
Q: What if I want to own a really great sword, but don't trust my
own knowledge to make such a purchase ?
A: Contact http://yakiba.com
Q: Do rusty blades make them less expensive ?
A: Of course obvious problems such as rust detract from the value,
however there are many subtle flaws and defects that are much harder
to distinguish. The only means of gaining this knowledge is study
and hands on experience.
Q: Why are polished blades more expensive ?
A: It is simple really, when you understand the costs involved.
Polishing fees are a minimum of $80, and up to $200 per inch of
nagasa or cutting edge. Shirasaya and Habaki average $300-$400 for
the bare basic styles and spiral upwards depending on the quality
and detail ordered. EXAMPLE: Katana with 27" nagasa. Polish @ $80
per inch = $2160. Shirasaya = $450 minimum. Habaki = $350 minimum.
Shipping with insurance both ways = $100 minimum. That's a total of
$3060 USD minimum, which does not include the cost of the blade.
Q: What happens if during polishing a flaw such as an opening
appears ?
A: Polishing is somewhat a gamble and if this happens, you loose.
That is always a possibility as there is no feasible way to know if
a potential flaw or defect lies just under the surface. Of course
several factors come into play when assessing the value, such as
severity of defect, importance of the sword, etc.
Q: Why are papered blades more expensive ?
A: A couple of reasons, first the most oblivious is related to the
costs incurred. The first level Hozon-To costs including broker
fees, shipping, etc. run approx. $800. Tokubetsu Hozon-To fees
approx. $1000, and Juyo Token approx. $2000.
Secondly, say you collect a specific school or smith, isn't it worth
more to be confident in knowing the sword you are fixing to shell
out big bucks on is legit ?
Q: Why are some papered swords cheap ?
A: This is seen many times on e-bay. The swords are generally
accompanied by older papers which are most likely legitimate. What
makes them cheap is that they have been worn down severely (tired)
and or developed flaws from polishing since obtaining the papers.
Q: What purpose do "Papers" serve ?
A: Papers are the buyers best ally for assurance that the sword is
made by whom it is represented as made by. If signed, papers
authenticate a legitimate or Shoshin signature. With Mumei swords,
papers attribute the sword to a specific school or smith.
Q: Are papers an absolute guarantee ?
A #1: No, most attributions from accredited entities are not
guarantees, but simply the expert opinions of some of the foremost
scholars in the world. They have been know to change their
attributions and though relatively rare, make mistakes. This is in
part due to the human factor, as no one is perfect (contrary to the
belief of some). Also, new information is constantly being
assimilated, hypothesized,
circumstantiated and accepted. Theories which were once accepted as
accurate become outdated or invalid, resulting in newly accepted
Theories. Remember these scholars became scholars by studying
:-) .
A #2: No. There have been instances where swords or fittings were
sold with papers that were not legit. Several years ago there was a
large conspiracy by the Yakuza where papers were falsely engineered
or swords falsely attributed. On E-Bay I have seen swords by one of
the largest Japanese sellers with papers which did not match the
sword. When questioned the Japanese seller replied, "Yes it comes
with papers, but they have nothing to do with the sword". This sort
of deceit exists. These dealers know that the majority of
non-Japanese cannot read kanji, and take advantage of that.
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